Within Range - White Sands National Park

 

The title of this post comes from the fact that White Sands National Park is actually inside the White Sands Missile Range.  In fact, on some maps, the national park does not show up at all, because it’s inside a huge empty gray area that is government property and is highly restricted.  We checked the website ahead of time and found that the next missile testing was to take place on February 27, which meant we could see the park except on that date.  We were there on February 24. 

This was the first time we all four went camping together, and the first time in several years that our old Burro trailer, which Sajad bought some years ago, was once again on the road.  It is several hours’ driving from Portal to the White Sands area.  You come out of the mountains and enter a huge flat plain area with very few buildings.  We had chosen Oliver Lee Memorial State Park because its campground looked nice, with bathrooms and showers, and non-electric sites were not expensive.  When we arrived, to our chagrin there was a sign that said “Campground Full,” and I despaired, but with our friends’ encouragement we went on the reservation website anyway.  We snagged the last two camping spots.  We were not able to get adjacent sites, but weren’t far away as the campground is not very big.  It’s snugged up against the side of a mountain, and faces the plain from the other side.

On Monday we piled into Sajad’s car and set off for the park, which was about ½ hour from the campground.  It’s an other-worldly place, sort of like the Indiana and Michigan Dunes but with pure white sand, like table salt or granulated sugar.  The vegetation on the dunes is also different out here, mostly yucca plants.  The sand is gypsum.  Gypsum is a mineral that is commonly used in making drywall.  It comes in several forms, but the sand form is rare.  This is the largest gypsum dunefield in the world, about 275 square miles.  The park protects about half of the field. 

There is one winding loop road into the park.  Several miles in, there is a sign, “Pavement Ends,” and after that point it resembles a Midwestern or Northern road after a snowstorm.  In fact you can see where plows are used to keep the sand off the road and parking areas.  Another sign warns, “Driving on Sand.”  There are many pull-outs where you can park, use a picnic shelter, and climb the dunes.  Some people bring circular sleds and slide down as if on a snowbank.  The sleds are sold or rented at the visitors’ center.  There were groups of teenagers just running down the slopes, face-first.  We climbed up on our hands and feet and slid down on our behinds.  My walking poles were definitely a help in getting back up the hills.  Sweets made friends, as many people bring dogs or are dog lovers.  The sand is very fine and clean and feels cool under your feet. 

 

After driving through the park, we returned to the campground, intending on a bonfire.  Instead we felt it had been a long day, and we made rather an early night of it.

The next morning Sajad and Mashawn left earlier, having car and trailer issues to deal with.  We lingered because we wanted to see the Missile Site Museum.  A government website gave very specific directions as to where to find the museum and how to get in, including what ID documents to bring and that there would be a required background check.  However, the GPS first took us to a gate that did not allow public access.  We talked to someone who did have access and he gave us directions to another gate, many miles away.  However, the airman at the desk there said she could not grant us base access passes unless we had a “sponsor,” whatever that meant, or if one of us was a disabled vet.  LCR showed her his discharge card, which he uses to get veterans’ discounts from time to time, but it was not enough.  So we gave up and drove back towards home, having now retraced our route across the plain more than once. 

On the way back to Portal, we stopped in Las Cruces at a Mexican restaurant called Si Senor.  This had been recommended to us by Sajad.  It was beautiful, the staff were friendly and courteous, and the food was delicious. 

The frustration of driving back and forth to no avail was definitely softened by the food and hospitality at Si Senor, as well as the privilege of driving through gorgeous mountain scenery on our way back to Portal!